I remember, nearly thirty years ago, reading Hugh Trevor-Roper's essay in a book called 'The Invention of Tradition.' Unfortunately, the reputation of Trevor-Roper (or Lord Dacre, as he was then called) took a bit of a knock when he authenticated the Hitler Diaries. Still, he raised some interesting points about Scotland in his essay on the invention of tradition in Scotland.
After the 1745 Rebellion, Highland dress was outlawed in Scotland. Military forts were established up north to ensure that the natives behaved themselves. Not that the lowlanders had any qualms about this; to them the Highlanders were 'The Irish' and almost a different species to themselves!
Come the end of the 18th and into the 19th Century, however, attitudes changed. Interest in the Highlands of Scotland was given a filip with the publication of the first translation ever of the poems of Ossian. The works of Ossian were lapped up all across Europe and even Napoleon was said to have carried a book of his poems around with him. The 'translator' of these epics became a celebrity, feted by the great and the good everywhere he went. Of course, the whole thing was a fraud.
This did not stop the Ossian phenomenon giving rise to other reinterpretations of Highland society, most notably by Walter Scott. His writings perpetuated the myth of a happy, prosperous, feudal society in the Highlands. The myth took on special significance when George IV visited Edinburgh. Scott stage-managed the whole thing, dressing the fat, German king in royal tartan, with flesh-coloured tights to disguise the ravages of gout. Soon everybody wanted to be seen in tartan.
Given Scott's myths about the close family ties of the clan system, everyone wanted to be a member of a clan and wanted their own clan tartan. Unfortunately, there was no such thing as a clan tartan; they had to be invented on an ad hoc basis. Tellingly, all new tartans had to be registered in London, which was still the case until only a few years ago. Those that did not have a Scottish name could claim links to one and wear the appropriate tartan. Scottish lords jumped on the bandwagon, desperate to be seen as clan chiefs.
It was the Lowlands, not the Highlands, which led the way in this new fashion. Edinburgh fell over itself, and still does, to pander to this myth. The rich sauntered about in 'full Highland dress' and rich tourists did, and do, likewise. Strangely the rush to be 'Scottish' and dress like a 'Highlander' did not extend to actually visiting the Highlands; that would come later in the century.
Even though everyone was pretending to be in love with the Highlands, it was an ancient, mythical Highlands that they loved. Comtemporary Highlanders were still called 'The Irish.' Thousands of them perished in the 'Irish' Potato Famine of the 1840s, but nobody cared. A few shillings might be given to a relief charity but that was about as far as any concern for the Highlanders went.
Trevor-Roper's essay tends to be totally disparaged these days; often being accused of being unionist propaganda. I, however, always thought the opposite. It was as if the English upper class had decided that Highland dress was acceptable again; but on their terms. Nobody cared about the real Highlanders or their dress; it was all about inventing something expensive and elaborate that only the rich could afford. In the actual Highlands themselves only the Anglicised lairds could affford to wear this 'Highland' garb.
Scottish soldiers were dressed up in this finery as well, looking absolutely nothing like real Highlanders. They went abroad with the Empire, giving the whole world the impression that this was how Scottish people dressed.
Everybody knows about the Highland Clearances but not everybody thinks about the lairds, dressed in their 'Highland' regalia, representing some mythical idea of the Highlands, while the real Highlanders were thrown out of their homes. The English huntin', shootin' and fishin' parties also dressed up in 'Highland' gear when they stomped over the erstwhile homes of the Highlanders in pursuit of stags and pheasant.
What I gleaned from Trevor-Roper, therefore, was that what people nowadays think of Scottish National Dress is a badge almost of slavery. Highland dress did not develop into what we see today; it was imposed on Scotland by upper-class Englishmen. Just look at some of the photos of people dressed up in 'Highland' dress for weddings and the like; does anyone think that such clothing is a real representation of old Scotland? Even the folk that try to be 'authentic' and wear a plain kilt with a lace-up, baggy shirt, look like nothing more than a dancer on The White Heather Club.
Think about it. Isn't it time we were a modern nation with our own history, instead of a history we're 'allowed' to have?
Can you honestly see somebody running through the Highlands dressed like this?
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